“A vacation is having nothing to do and all day to do it in.” - Robert Orben
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Galapagos Discoveries (or things I saw)
"Galapagos: A Novel" by Kurt Vonnegut
Would I recommend the book to everyone? No, but if someone I knew was headed to the Galapagos, I would suggest they pick it up.
Day 11 - Return to Quito
I´m glad we started our journey in San Cristobal then went to Isabela before coming to Santa Cruz. In San Cristobal the seal lions make you keenly aware that things are going to different than they are on the mainland. The sea lions lounge where they want and people go about their business without disrupting them. It made me feel like I was enterning a strange paradise where the animals are fearless and docile. In Isabela, the marine iguanas replaced the sea lions in popularity but were equally as bold. Santa Cruz has a lot of pelicans but they are not nearly as friendly and the town is definitely the big city of the islands. There are stop lights, grocery stores and I bet they even have cable television.
We stayed at the Angermeyer Hotel and it was my favorite place we stayed during the whole journey. The hotel is on ¨the other side¨as the locals say and you have to take a water taxi to town. The taxi costs $.60/pp during the day and $1/pp at night and the trip takes just a couple of minutes.
This morning we had to wake up early in order to go to the Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS) before heading to the airport on Baltra. We raced through the CDRS and didn´t really spend quality time there but we did see Lonesome George (I don´t know if it his name or the fact that he´s over 100 years old but he looked like a very sad, very old tortise) and a land iguana.
The route to the airport was pretty exhausting (a water taxi to a bus to a ferry to a bus to the airport) and then when we finally arrived at the airport we had to wait for our flight for close to three hours. Baltra is an island that used to have a military base on it. Now there are just abandoned buildings and the single runway airport. Our bags were checked one final time to make sure we weren´t transporting seeds or animals (they check your bags everytime you arrive and depart an island). We did not arrive in Quito until 5:30p.
We had dinner with a guide who was supposed to take us on a tour of the city but we were all too tired and opted for a quick driving tour and an early bedtime.
Tomorrow, we all head home. I´m the last to leave. I wanted a day in Quito so I could visit the churches and tour the city but it is sad to see everyone leave.
HIGHLIGHT: Seeing the giant land iguana was pretty cool. The iguana was three, maybe foor feet long and it was different shades of brown and yellow. Its skin was amazing. It looked like it was a child wearing an iguana suit that was a little baggy around the elbows and shoulders.
Day 10 - Santa Cruz Island
Once we recouperated we took a bus to the highlands and hiked through a coffee plantation that borders a national park and has wild tortises. I was surprised by how agile and long-necked the tortises can be.
After lunch we went kayaking around Divine Bay and Punta Estrada. While on the water we say marine tortises, spotted eagle rays, blue footed boobies, magnificnet frigates, sea lions and my favorite sighting of the day - - nesting pelicans with their hatchlings. Up close, pelicans are HUGE and their babies are larger than most other birds.
HIGHLIGHT: On the boat ride over we passed an island that was dotted with male frigates with their red plumes fully inflated. It was a sight I didn´t expect to see so it was a real treat.
Friday, August 27, 2010
Day 9
Today is our last day on Isabela Island.
As a whole, today was my favorite day on this trip so far.
We started the day snorkelling and ended the day with a bike ride.
While snorkelling I saw so many beautiful fish, stalked a sting ray and played with a sea lion.
After lunch we went on a hearty bike ride up to the Wall of Tears (a wall they used to make prisoners build and tear down then start the process all over again). On the way home we stopped at several vistas and just soaked in the scenery.
HIGHLIGHT: Swimming with the sea lion was pretty amazing.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Day 8
HIGHLIGHT: Seeing the Vermillion Flycatcher. It looked like a scarlet masked robber.
Day 7 - Isabela Island
Today we had to wake up early so we could catch a 7am flight from San Cristobal to Isabela. I was shocked to find Isabela more volcanic and even less inhabitable than San Cristobal. The sea lions of San Cristobal have been replaced by iguanas.
Our hotel has breath taking views and we maybe 50 feet from the ocean.
Before lunch we hiked though the wetlands to a tortoise sanctuary. On the way we saw two flamingos. It was so jarring to see them in the wild. Isabela island is more black San Cristobal (which was very brown) so the flamingos popped out of the scenery.
After lunch we went on a short hike around a lava flow and snorkelling in the bay.
The day ended sitting in front of a priceless ocean view, drinking nice wine and discussing the socio-economic situation of the islands with the hotel manager.
HIGHLIGHT: After the lava hike we headed back to our boat but could not board because a sea lion was napping on the gangplank. Our guide tried to shoo it like a dog but it would not budge. Finally, the boat pulled up alongside the dock and the sea lion got annoyed and jumped into the water. It was an amusing encounter.
Day 6
He was right and much to the shock of our guide it wasn't the common whitetip shark (the locals call it the vegetarian shark) but rather the slightly more territorial Galapagos Shark. It was about the size of me and I wanted OUT of the channel. It was thrilling but I'd rather it didn't happen again.
HIGHLIGHT: Seeing the elegant Tropicbird fly between the tuffs of Leon Dormido.
Day 5 - Isla San Cristobal
There are sea lions everywhere and I'm not talking about decorations I am talking about giant sea lions. They are on park benches, lounging on the sidewalk, stretched out across stairs leading to the bay -- everywhere. It is adorable.
Today we hiked around the San Cristobal Interpretation Center. The trail was manmade and absolutely lovely. I felt like I was on the yellow brick road headed to Oz.
HIGHLIGHT: Seeing Darwin Bay. I couldn't help but be awe struck when thinking about the fact that this is where Charles Darwin stepped off the HMS Beagle and forever changed the way we view existence.
Saturday, August 21, 2010
My comb, an aside
I couple of years ago I was on a trip and realized that I´d forgotten my brush at home. I went to a pharmacy to buy a new one and decided to get something lighter and smaller so I bought a comb. The only comb they had was made of hard plastic that seemed a little brittle but I bought it anyway. At some point during my travels, the comb broke in half. Filled with environmental guilt, I kept the larger half and tossed the rest instead of just replacing the comb.
Well, today, two of the six prongs of my half comb fell out leaving me with a wide-tooted four-prong comb. Unfortunately, this had to happen when I´m in the most remote of locations. There is no way I can get a replacement now.
Between the brackish water and my lame excuse for a comb I may very well return with dreadlocks.
My Group
Day 4 - - Happy Birthday to Me
The pregnant lady decided to stay back as well and the two of us went to the spa together. Honestly, I think most of the group was on the fence but Pablo is such a salesman that the other six went on the hike. After our spa treatments the pregnant lady and I had tea and chatted a bit. On the way back to our rooms we noticed the hikers in a hot tub so I decided to join them.
We had lunch at the resort before heading back to Quito. At the end of the meal they surprised me with a cake. As soon as I blew out my candle (thankfully they didn´t light 39 other ones) an Air Supply song came on. I joke that it was a perfect birthday -- cake AND my favorite band.
The drive to Quito was quick as was our goodbye to Pablo. He gave me his phone number and email in case we decide to go to a ¨football¨ match on Saturday before we all head back.
The Mercure Hotel has become our base camp. I´m living out of one bag and storing things in the other one. Now that we are done with the cool weather of the highlands it is time to pack warm weather clothes for the Galapagos. We found out when we arrived that the weight restrictions have changed and are only allowed one carry on and one 20lb back (not a 30lb bag as originally told). At least I can load up my carry-on with my heavy gear
Friday, August 20, 2010
Day 3 - Termas Papallacta
We had breakfast at the Hacienda and the headed out to our hike.
Our hike was around the crater of a volcano and it was tough. I couldn´t get a full breath whenever we ascended. Thankfully, descending was fine. I´m not quite convinced my altitude sickness medicine helped me at all on this trip. It was amazing how much air I could take in once we were off the volcano.
At the end of our hike, Romaro, our driver, met us with a gourmet picnic lunch. I love having everything planned for me. I just do what I´m told when I´m told and I don´t have anything to worry about.
After the hike, we drove three and a half hours to our hotel for the night. It is a thermal bath resort. Honestly, they couldn´t have picked a more perfect place! The thermal pools are just outside our bungalo and they are amazing. Im going to schedule a massage for tomorrow as an extra birthday treat.
HIGHLIGHT: When we were at the highest point of our hike, Pablo gave us a traditional candy. I was wrapped in dried banana peel and was just a little bigger than a thumb print in length and about 2cm thick. It was gummy and a deep watermellon color. I shared mine with an Indigenous boy who was hiking with another group. He had to be about seven. We let me take a photo of him so I decided to share (STRESS on ¨share¨-- this was not a bribe). There was also a moment at the hascienda that stands out -- during breakfast the waitress had to shoo a peacock out of the dining room.
Day 2
We left the hotel at around 9am and headed to our final pit stop for the night, the Hacienda Pinsaqui. Along the way we stopped at the actual equator. It was strange to stand with my one foot in the nothern hemisphere and my left foot in the souther. I was surprised to learn there that ¨north¨actuall means ¨left¨and not UP as we traditionally think. We continued on to the Otavalo Market and to a little house in a ghetto where a native woman made us a pilla (or hand flute). Lunch was at an amazing Hacienda in the middle of I dont know where. I bravely ordered tree tomato juice. Acording to Pablo, the tree tomato is not related to the tomato but rather the potato Some people don´t believe him but I choose to think that Pablo would never lie to us. For dessert at dinner I even had tree tomato sorbet.
We´ve switched the daytime itinerary for days two and three so there was no hiking today but tomorrow we hike around a volcano. Pablo says there will be lots of orchids. I can´t wait.
HIGHLIGHT: I really enjoyed all the history of the country that Pablo shared with the group as we drove through the countryside.
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Day 1 - Quito
I visited a lot of churches. Walked a lot. Got beaten up by the sun. The sun here is hot. My nephew always teases me about complaining "great ball of fire in the sky being hot" but in Ecuador, the sun is HOT. I was mostly OK when moving but the moment I stopped I felt like a vampire being struck by a sun ray. In a cab I thought something was biting my foot but when I looked down I realized it was just the sun.
Tomorrow morning I meet my group and set out on an adventure.
HIGHLIGHT: Hmmm, tough one. I would have to say La Compania. It was a very unassuming church from the outside but when you walked in EVERYTHING except the floor and pews is gold. I felt like I was inside a Faberge egg. If I was allowed to take photos you'd see that instead of my lunch.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
First Impressions
I wasn't expecting it to be all spread out. From the air, the first thing I noticed is that there are few straight street/roads. The street lights also stood out, they have an orange tint instead of the bright white of the States. It gave a warm glow to the city. I am curious to see the city in the daylight.
A woman I worked with set me up with a driver, Felix (rhymes with "relics"). Felix is a jovial guy who speaks about as much English as I do Spanish. We worked it out though and I got to my hotel.
The hotel is super nice. I wish my apartment was half as nice. The layout makes great use of the space.
Today's Highlight: Felix, without a doubt.
On the Border in Atlanta
Delta kindly offers a light snack on my five-plus hour flight to Quito so I decided to get something before boarding. I'm curious what my vegetarian options will be while I'm traveling.
After a nerve wracking flight from NYC to ATL I asked Delta about upgrading. Because I have an "L" fare, it is not an option. They would rather turn down money based on ticket-class rather than sell empty seats. What's up with that?
Trip overview lifted directly from guide's itinerary


