Day 5 - slipping into paradise

Something happened today. I was sitting on the beach under a mangrove tree and I looked out onto the scene below and something happened inside and I thought to myself, "This is paradise." It hit me hard. I was enjoying my getaway but I didn't feel Jamaica until today.

Of course, I leave tomorrow...

Day 4

This is my home away from home.
I wasn't feeling 100% today so spent most of the day inside.
I did manage to venture out for sunset.

The Cotton Tree

There is something special about this tree.

When I wake up in the morning, I hear hundreds maybe thousands of bees swarming the unassuming tree.

At dusk, when I leave my cabin for sunset, countless bats are performing a similar nighttime ritual.

When the tree is under attack, even I think I can smell the sweet allure of the cotton buds.

This is how I feel today

The Green Flash!

But can you see it from such a distance? I can't zoom the iPhone video camera.

Day 4 - More of the same

It is getting harder and harder to write about my days because they are pretty much the same.

This is the view I sat in front of all day. I'm not getting as much reading done as I had hoped because the beach keeps hypnotizing me.

Religion in Jamaica

Nicole, the woman running the B&B I'm staying at, told me that Jamaica has the highest number of churches per capita in the world. I haven't noticed as many here as I did in Hawaii which must be in competition for the title.

She leant me a Rough Guide for the island and according to them there are over 250 denominations in Jamaica and 80+% of the people identify themselves as Christian.

Day 3

Another lazy day on the beach. Despite my vampire tendencies, I may have gotten a little sun today.

The highlight of my day was watching a sand crab make its way along the beach. I first noticed the little guy (maybe four inches long, two and a half inches wide and as white as the sand) when I went move my shoes. Turns out they were his clever hiding place. Immediately, he buried himself up to his eyeballs. When I sat back down, he scurried a few feet away then burrowed into the sand once again. He startled easily but made his way under someone else's chair and disappeared.

I saw another green flash at sunset but doubt I'll ever be able to catch it on camera. Tomorrow night I'm going to record the sunset on my phone.

Rasta Pasta

Inspired by the Bible (Proverbs 15:17), Rastafarians eat a strict diet that is called Ital which is basically vegetarian prepared without salt. Usually, Ital is organic and low on soy. They view the body as a temple so they eat well, do not consume liquor and they don't smoke (except of course ganja which according to them is sacred as per Psalms 104:14).

There is a yummy Rasta "joint" (the local term for all the roadside shacks that sell rum or food) down the road from where I'm staying called Ras Rody. It is so good! They serve pumpkin soup, callaloo (a dish made of greens), ackee (a local fruit/vegetable that looks and tastes like eggs), and the Jamaican staple of rice and peas cooked in coconut milk amongst other things.

Today, I had Rasta Pasta for lunch.:

Good morning, Jamaica!

Last night was a long night. By all appearances, Jamaica is a fairly poor country. The number one industry here is tourism and with the world economy in such bad shape business all over the island is slow. The roads here are in a bumpy, pot hole riddled state of disrepair, most cars are old and run down, many businesses are just shacks alongside the road with no power. The one thing the local people seem to spend their money on is sound systems. Spending the night here is like living in a radio with a broken tuner and the volume cranked up to 11. Everyone wants to share their music. Every open air bar wants to entice new customers with their music. It is a very competitive night and I just want crickets to lull me to sleep.

One thing I really like about Negril is that by law, no building can be taller than the highest palm tree. I can't imagine any such law anywhere in the states.

Christmas Day - Negril, Jamaica

I'm the most anti-tourist Negril has probably ever seen.

I wake up at the crack of dawn in a town that unbeknownst to me has a reputation for being a little hedonistic.

I cover up on the beach like I'm like a vampire.

I spent most of the day reading, slowly sipping on rum punch and occasionally just staring out at the calm sea. I broke up my routine with a nap in a hammock which got off to a slow start because I was too enchanted by nearby humming birds to close my eyes. I made my way back to my cottage by the cliffs just in time to watch the sunset. Afterward, just as everyone else was gearing up for a debaucherous night out, I took a shower and crawled into bed.

I hope to repeat the whole routine tomorrow.

Money, mon!

I went to the ATM today to get some money. It is $84J to $1US. That requires a surprising amount of math. I decided to start out with $10,000J which is about $120US. What made my head hurt was the $253J ATM fee. Basically Jamaicans only use dollars, there are no cents. So, a single Tootsie Roll cost $3J and a liter of water is $90J. My lunch cost $800J. I don't like he big numbers so I've decided to think of every dollar as a penny. It takes the sting out of a $253 ATM fee.

Christmas Eve

I arrived in Negril about an hour before sunset. I quickly unpacked then walked across the street to a bar that hangs off the cliff called Rick's Cafe. The view of the ocean sunset from the cliff was definitely the highlight of my day.

When I moved to San Francisco someone told me a about the phenomenon of the green flash at sunset. On hearing the story I envisioned the horizon flickering green at the moment the sun disappeared. I've been looking for the green flash ever since. Well, on 12/24/2011 my quest ended. As the sun sunk below the horizon I saw the green flash. Turns out it is a brief flicker that appears right as the last sliver of the sun slips into someone else's sunrise. It is such a brief moment that I feel I've been training my entire professional career for this chance. Honestly, my eye registers it as a digital hit. Now my new quest is to get a photo of this illusive event.

Travel Tips

When it comes to in-flight movies, choose wisely.

This morning I picked "The Help" over "Elf" -- big mistake. An hour and twenty minutes in, tears. I'm not in a dark theater where I can discreetly brush away the tears. It is daytime and I'm sitting next to a guy who is trying to watch "Dog the Bounty Hunter." All attempts to hold back the flood gates result in little gasps that sound like I'm trying to hold my breath until I pass out. I just couldn't keep the tears back. Embarrassing. In a vain attempt to save face, I changed channels.

Now, not only am I a whimpering mess, I don't even know how the movie ends.

From Jamaica Queens to Negril, Jamaica

I am looking forward to spending Christmas on the beach.
I've never needed a getaway more.

Tonight's expeditor looks like a goat

The Girl and the Goat - Stephanie Izard, chef

Our final meal and once again we are at the kitchen table.

Just a little something to tide us over

A snack of hummus, tzitiki and pita at Miller's Pub followed by a dip cone at Dairy Queen.

Hard to beat.

Me cheering Minjung on

Giving new meaning to "dinner theater"

The "expeditor" routinely loads the trays up with 8+ plates. It is impressive to watch the waitresses lift them then put another plate in their empty hand.

Yolk has high Yelp appeal but is just a diner at its best.

Our marathon continues

Minjung cheering on the runners

Here come the elite women!

Evidently our food marathon isn't the only marathon happening in Chicago this weekend

This guy is the leader of the elite men.

The forgotten photos

I just realize I only posted two of the four dessert photos from Charlie Trotter's so here are the remaining.

I should also mention that there were two plates I forgot to photograph:
 * Manchego cheese plate with a fruit compote, nuts and toasted cranberry bread
 *  Four candies: mango butter cream chip, pistachio rum chocolate, fudge, sugar dusted candy jelly

The Bristol - Chris Pandel, chef

Too dark for photos but the food was amazing.  This restaurant was recommended to us last night by our chef, Michael. Today we discovered that Charlie Trotter had the folks at The Bristol cater his wedding. Excellent recommendation!

Starters:
Roasted beets and squash salad with pistachio presto and Arugula

Dill monkey bread with melted dill butter on the side

Entree:
Julia - Potato gnocchi, tomato fondue and gjetost

Minjung - Caballero, roasted cauliflower, macona almond, saffron

Shared Desserts (Amanda Rockman, Top Chef: Desserts)
Chocolate & date cake, hazelnut toffee, cardamon, orange

Basque cake, poached apple, cider Sabayon, cinnamon walnuts

Yum.....

Xoxo - Rick Bayless, chef

Woodland Mushroom Torta w/ goat cheese, black beans, wild arugula and 3-Chile salsa

"food coma" doesn't even begin to describe how I feel

The chef and our primary server

We've stopped talking because the food is so amazing.

Let the feasting begin!

Our first meal is at Charlie Trotter's and we are eating at the table in the kitchen!

The start of a gourmet weekend in Chicago.

The final encore

Pete  Seeger closes the show with "Turn,  turn, turn."

Newport Folk Festival

I think Ramblin' Jack beat out PS 22 as my favorite act of the day.

It felt like the golden oldies when Pete Seger joined him on stage.

Another highlight was picking up an autographed Earl Scruggs Hatch print.

I sweated a lot but survived the sun. Looking forward to day two.

A Few of Our Favorite Things

Mother's Top Three Favorite things about Hawaii:
1. The Hawaiian people are so nice.
2. The beautiful mountains, beaches and flowers
3. I enjoyed staying at the B&B's, it was nice to meet up with other people and visit with them.

Julia's Top Three Favorite things about Hawaii
1. Coffee - there is great coffee everywhere you go. I used YELP to find local favorites.
2. KPOA - Hawaiian radio makes driving all the more enjoyable.
3. Aloha - There are bumper stickers here that say "Live Aloha" and when you are on the islands you definitely feel the aloha

Tips for Your Hawaiian Vacation

* The only guide book you need is Andrew Doughty's "(insert island name) REVEALED: The Ultimate Guidebook." It is usually current and it is well researched and filled with great travel tips. We found his restaurant picks to be good too.
* Bring a jacket or sweater -- it gets cool at night and up in the mountains
* Be prepared for scenic diversions and don't over plan your day
* Make sure your rental car has cruise control. The speed limit is lower than anywhere I've ever been but you'll need it to insure you are at least going the posted minimum speed. There are so many breathtaking distractions that driving is quite challenging.
* If your phone doesn't have GPS, be sure to get GPS with your car. The street street names are so similar to one another that every vowel counts when looking for your location.
* If you are prone to motion sickness, pack ginger tablets. You'll need them for driving just as much if not more than you need them for adventures on the sea.
* Always carry your bathing suit, a beach towel and your snorkel gear. You never know when the a picturesque beach will call your name.
* Bring binoculars -- you can see whales from the shore
* When going inside places be mindful of whether or not you need to take your shoes off

AS FOR THE ISLANDS WE VISITED:

OAHU

* Bring an umbrella or rain jacket with you. It rains at least a dozen times a day
* Go to ISLAND SNOW for "shave ice" (we liked the Pali Pog)
* Spend time at KAILUA BEACH PARK
* Snokel at HANAUMA BAY (the best snorkel spot on our three island tour)
* Go to LEONARD'S BAKERY for the Li Hing malasadas
* Visit PEARL HARBOR and tour all the on-site museums. Take time to watch all the videos. Be sure to leave all your bags at the hotel or in your car otherwise you will have to check it for $3.

BIG ISLAND

* Whenever you have the option to eat something made with LILIKOI do it.
* If you are staying near KEALAKEKUA go to ISLAND NATURALS MARKET, get a cup of organic Hawaiian java and watch the sunset from the lanai
* MOUNTAIN THUNDER coffee is delicious and the drive up the mountain to the plantation is nice.
* If you are staying in Waimea go to MAMANE BAKERY and get a cheese danish. The store looks like a warehouse but if you enter from the side they will sell you yummy baked goods.
* The best meal we had on our trip was at HILO BAY CAFE in HILO. Save room for desert.
* When you first arrive at VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK check at the visitor's center for the daily activities. We enjoyed the crater walk/tour with a park ranger and the ukelele lesson at the art center.
* The food at the LAVA ROCK CAFE in the town of Volcano was OK but the lilikoi cheesecake was the best treat we had on our trip.
MISSED: Mauna Kea stargazing ideally on a night when there is no moon or it is at less than 15%. Here's a link: http://www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis/visiting-mauna-kea/star-gazing-program.html

MAUI

* We really enjoyed the TRILOGY snorkel cruise to Lana'i. Don't skip the tour of the city of Lana'i if you go.
* WHALES! There are whales all along the HONOAPIILANI HIGHWAY and we often pulled over and just watched the show.
* Ma La restaurant for a nightcap or nosh
* If you are near Lahaina on a Sunday, go to the 10:30a service at LAHAINA UNITED METHODIST CHURCH. It is a lovely Hawaiian experience.
* If you go to HANA, take the back road home. They sell t-shirts that say "I survived the Road to Hana." Forget that... when you finish you will feel worthy of a medal.
MISSED: There is a sunset lookout on Highway 37. I think it is Sun Yat Sen Park near Keokea. I wanted to stop and take in the sunset but it was threatening rain so we kept on going. If I had another day in Maui, I would have gone back.

Day 13 - Aloha, Hawai'i

We woke up early and began our 24-hour journey home. We saw whales on the drive to the Kahului airport, made one last bakery stop and joined the island commuters on the flight from Maui to Oahu. I don't want to leave. This has been a great vacation.

Hawaiian nachos

Day 12 - Aloha and Mahola, Hawai'i

Today was our last full day in Hawaii. Unfortunately, Mother woke up a little under the weather. She stayed in bed all day long bundled up in several outfits so she could stay warm. I ran around the island some but stayed close by and checked up on her throughout the day.

Like most local businesses in Hawaii, Penny, the owner of the lovely B&B we called our Maui home, doesn't work on Sunday. I think it goes back to the missionary history of the island -- Sunday is a day of rest. The touring company we sailed with to Lana'i works on Sunday but out of respect to the locals, they do not go ashore on Sundays. Penny had several recommendations for breakfast so I Yelped her top picks and decided to go to Gazebo, a restaurant nestled within the Napili Shore Condos right on the coast. The restaurant looks like it has 15 tables and according to the reviews you always have to wait. When I got there at 8:15am the restaurant was full and I was maybe the 10th person on line. While waiting on line my inner New Yorker surged to the surface and I called the restaurant to see if I could place an order to go. To my complete surprise the woman who answered the phone said, "Sure thing." My breakfast burrito was ready five minutes later. The gazebo that holds the restaurant and gives it its name is poolside and surrounded by patio tables so I just sat down and ate my to go breakfast right there. There was free coffee for guests and an amazing ocean view with windsurfers, snorkelers and whales. All that and no tipping required! All good by me.

I was hoping Mother would rebound in time for church but she was officially down for the count. I went to Lahaina United Methodist Church without her. Penny is a member and invited us when we asked about nearby churches. The church is built like a house, a very large house, and it sits across the street from the ocean. All the stained glass has tropical flowers. The front doors and most of the windows were left open. It was nice to hear the ocean and birds throughout the service. When I walked in, a woman greeted me with a plumeria lei. If Hawaii had a state scent, it would definitely be plumeria. The call to worship was performed by the preacher blowing a conch shell outside. It sounded like a ship's horn. When we sang the first hymn, Penny leaned over and told me that the organist is Maui's state senator. All the men wore Aloha shirts and all the women wore lovely floral print dresses or blouses. Some men wore shorts, most slacks, one a man skirt. I thought it was interesting that the only people wearing real shoes (not sandals or flip flops) were natives. They did the Lord's Prayer in English but said a Hawaiian prayer afterward. The sermon was nice. It was about understanding that God has a purpose for everything. During the offering, a "Tongan Choir" sang a very familiar hymn in their native tongue as beautiful koa bowls were passed from row to row. According to the church bulletin, the service ended with "Circle of Ohana." This entailed the entire congregation forming a circle inside the church, holding hands and singing "Hawaii Aloha" as the minister played the ukelele. Interestingly enough, this is the song that Mother and I learned during our ukelele lesson on the Big Island. Honestly, the whole experience ranks pretty close to the highlight of my entire trip. I was very sad that Mother couldn't be there with me because I felt like I was having a Hawaiian experience that was very personal and earnest.

I spent the afternoon hunting down good coffee and bumming around from beach to beach.

At some point in the day, I bought some ginger ale and some crackers and rented a movie to take back to Mom. She was in and out and the movie was terrible but I tried.

I ended up going out at sunset. I wanted to watch the sea turtles come ashore and feed on the seaweed. I watched them for close to an hour before returning to Ma La, the place we first ate on Lahaina. I sat at the bar, ate a small Greek salad and chatted with a couple from Monterey, California.

It was a lazy last day for me. I enjoyed myself as much as I could but it was not nearly as much fun without my traveling companion.


Mother's Highlight: The lei. (Penny gave me her lei at the end of the church service and told me to give it to Mother. She knew how much Mom liked the plumeria.)

Julia's Highlight: Church. It was a perfect morning. At one point two birds flew in, hung out for a bit then left. I really feel the beauty and reverence of both God and nature here on the islands.